Table Talk

Playing Hooky

It’s rare that Jo-Ann and I get to leave the shop.  It’s even rarer that we get to leave together.  Never before have we left the shop, together, to share a fine meal at one of Ottawa’s newest and hottest restaurants.  But recently, the team was on top of things and we snuck out for a few hours to try John Taylor’s new venture on the corner of Bank & Sunnyside.  We are fans of John’s creations and have enjoyed his food at Domus, and at other events throughout the city over the years.  John is not only a talented Chef, but has demonstrated a true commitment to the ‘Local’ movement, and he’s a hell of a nice guy.  I don’t think there is a more humble or down to earth chef in the city.

The old Second Cup, has been transformed by John and his team into a functional space with an open kitchen that seats about 30 people.  With the patio he can probably boost his capacity to 45.

The short menu changes daily based on what’s in season.  There is also a well stocked charcuterie & cheese menu, offering the option to pick 4, 6, or 8 items to share.  Perfect for a little snack before or after a movie.  We started our experience with a selection of items from this menu, including torchon of foie gras, smoked albacore, quail terrine, cured meat, pickled beets and pickled red onion.

To accompany our starters, I chose a 2008 Calamus Gewurztraminer from Jordan, Ontario which was light, fruity, and lovely.  Jo-Ann enjoyed a nice, dry Henry Pelham Riesling.

My appetizer was a local asparagus soup garnished with a dollop of crème fraîche and drizzled with a cold pressed soybean oil.  Although the soup appeared thin, it was packed with flavour.  Jo-Ann’s tomato salad with blue cheese, crispy pigs cheeks, buttermilk & chive dressing & local greens was spectacular.  You can’t beat the simplicity of a BLT, and when you use only the finest ingredients, there is no better flavour combination.

For my main course I chose the pickerel with couscous & spring peas.  Jo-Ann enjoyed the ‘Kerr Farms’ black angus flatiron steam served with polenta cakes.  Both were delicious and beautifully prepared.

With our main course I tried a glass of the 2008 Fielding Pinot Gris from Beamsville Bench in Ontario, and Jo-Ann had a Niagara River 2007 Lailey Merlot.  Both were very nice.

Being a resident of the neighbourhood, I can tell you that we are so excited to have a fine dining restaurant in the hood.  Pubs and chip trucks are lovely, but every once in a while it’s nice to enjoy a beautifully prepared meal loaded with local ingredients, accompanied by a decent wine, in an adult oriented environment.

Speaking of which, since our visit to Taylor’s, there has been much fuss made in the news about a recent complaint from a patron who felt unwelcome with baby in tow.  I have kids, and enjoy dining out with them and have done so since they were very young.  However, I also occasionally like to go out to a nice restaurant, and enjoy some adult company where the food is the focus.   I have had many a memorable meal disturbed by small children at nearby tables.  When I am paying $20 per person for my dinner, I can handle a little disturbance.  However, when I am opening up my wallet to enjoy a meal that I know will cost over $50 per person, the last thing I want to see are small children at the next table.  80 percent of the time these children are well behaved and not a bother.  However it’s the 20% of the time that we are all talking about.  No matter how well behaved a child is, they have bad days too, and once you are seated with your party the tendency is to ‘make the most of it’.  I have had people circle the restaurant, taking turns walking a fussing child up and down the aisles.  I have seen people let the baby cry himself to sleep.  I have seen the parent leave the restaurant and attempt over and over again to re-join the party.  However, what I have never seen is the entire party get up and leave with the infant in order to avoid disturbing all the other patrons.

I applaud John & Sylvia’s attempt to create an adult friendly environment for all of us (parents included) to enjoy on occasion.


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